2210 By Natty Can Cook, London Se24: ‘much More Than Just Posh Jerk Chicken At Fancy Prices’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

It’s 6pm successful Herne Hill, south-east London, and I’ve popped retired for immoderate Caribbean nutrient wearing fancy athleisure wear. Yoga trousers and a smart hoodie, but PE kit nonetheless. And, erstwhile I get astatine 2210 By Natty Can Cook, I realise I americium severely underdressed.

When cook Nathaniel Mortley announced that he was opening a edifice that aimed to observe Caribbean civilization “in style” and to triumph a Michelin star, his loyal Instagram following, arsenic good arsenic their families and friends, took nan little and dressed accordingly. As fancily plated ackee and saltfish outpouring rolls passed by, arsenic good arsenic a lot of rum punch, I rustled successful my handbag for immoderate bigger earrings and much makeup. “This isn’t dinner, it’s an occasion!” I hissed astatine Charles erstwhile he asked why I was disconnected to nan loo to put connected immoderate lippy, leaving him pinch a paper filled pinch nan likes of confit pork belly pinch scotch bonnet mayo, lobster rasta pasta and carrot and plantain bhajis. By nan clip I sewage back, a sheet of thin, crisp roti pinch a highly addictive scotch bonnet food dip had appeared. One shouldn’t portion butter, but successful this lawsuit it’s excusable.

‘A crispy beast’: 2210 by Natty Can Cook’s ackee and saltfish outpouring roll.

This caller edifice is simply a earthy progression of Mortley’s caller stint astatine the Greyhound pub other Peckham library, wherever his reddish snapper pinch maize salsa and naughty chickenhearted pinch brownish food mash quickly earned him a loyal audience. Mortley began cooking arsenic a teen – his mother’s an accountant and his begetter a businessman – and he went connected to activity astatine nan likes of Oblix and Jason Atherton’s City Social, but past circumstances led him to walk immoderate clip astatine Her Majesty’s Pleasure successful Brixton HMP.

Dwelling connected this situation stint whitethorn look a spot churlish, not slightest successful ray of rather really utterly prestigious 2210 is, but those jailhouse years are a pivotal portion of Mortley’s root story. All cool restaurants these days unfastened pinch an idyllic, flowery communicative astir Chef Tarquin floating astir Thailand aliases India, gap-yearing and stealing inspiration, truthful by contrast, erstwhile Mortley speaks astir his clip astatine the Clink, nan charity-led, prisoner-run edifice astatine Brixton prison, a nutrient writer’s ears are bound to prick up. The Clink, which I predominant from clip to time, is simply a funny aged restaurant: you make a booking astatine slightest a week successful advance, stitchery successful a Portakabin for information checks, and are past escorted into nan intimidating womb that is Brixton prison. If you’ve ever watched Porridge, which was filmed betwixt 1974 and 1977, well, Brixton doesn’t consciousness overmuch different now, and an ambiance of hopelessness hangs dense successful nan air. Until, that is, you measurement into a discreet outbuilding wherever a semi-formal edifice serving a modern European paper is successful afloat swing. Prisoners cook, prisoners do beforehand of location and, wrong these doors, astatine least, immoderate dream prevails.

Mortley threw himself into life astatine nan Clink, and successful doing truthful asked himself immoderate large questions astir really he’d ended up locked successful a cell, alternatively than rising to nan apical of nan Caribbean cooking game. Now, umpteen residencies later, he must look retired of 2210’s work hatch erstwhile work is successful afloat plaything and pinch himself astatine really acold his life has turned around.

‘Elegantly flavoured’: 2210 by Natty Can Cook’s naughty chickenhearted ultimate pinch fried allspice terrine, charred outpouring bulb and mango and pineapple salsa.

Charles, my longsuffering eating partner, says 2210 is nan champion repast retired we’ve had this year; for me, it’s decidedly up location successful nan best-of list. That ackee and saltfish outpouring roll, for example, is simply a crispy beast filled pinch rich, moist fish, served connected a reddish capsicum velouté and drizzled pinch a outpouring bulb emulsion. Next up, a lamb belly skewer strewn pinch a masala simplification and herb concasse. The naughty chicken, meanwhile, is elegantly flavoured pinch thyme, ail and cinnamon and comes pinch a good, crisp mango and pineapple salsa. A peculiar stand-out is nan seared pimento duck bosom that’s served pinch confit duck limb croquette and pumpkin puree.

‘Highly recommended for your ain consciousness of wellbeing’: Natty Can Cook’s deep-fried pome crumble.

Sure, 2210 isn’t by immoderate standards inexpensive – starters are astir £12 and mains hover astir nan £30 people – but there’s an attraction to item successful each crockery that makes this spot much than fresh for a typical occasion. There are only 2 desserts connected connection correct now: plantain barroom pinch achromatic cocoa ganache, which is simply a hunk of sponge pinch “chocolate snow” and nan much humble of nan two. Treat that arsenic your starter pudding, past move connected to nan deep-fried pome crumble, which is ample hunks of pickled apples pinch pome gel and caramelised pecans, each deep-fried and served pinch java chantilly and a divided basil creme anglaise. Calories-wise, this is, of course, wholly unnecessary, but for your ain consciousness of wellbeing, I highly urge it.

2210 by Natty Can Cook is overmuch much much than conscionable posh naughty chickenhearted astatine fancy prices. It’s already mobbed and there’s thing genuinely bully going connected here.

• 2210 by Natty Can Cook 75 Norwood Road, London SE24, 020-3713 5108. Open Weds & Thurs 5-9pm, Fri 5-11pm, Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-9pm. From astir £50 a caput for 3 courses à la carte; Sun from astir £45 a head, each positive drinks and service