Martino’s, London Sw1: ‘beautiful Bedlam’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

Does nan area astir Sloane Square successful cardinal London really request different fancy, Italian-leaning edifice that serves up tortellini successful brodo and veal Milanese? Well, yes, apparently it does. One Saturday lunchtime precocious past twelvemonth astatine Martino’s was hectic moreover successful nan delightful reception area, wherever we were waiting to cheque successful a overgarment pinch nan elegantly uniformed front-of-house ladies. All nan tables successful this basking caller all-day brasserie were booked and busy, and plentifulness of walk-ins were champing astatine nan spot for cancellations.

Actually, “delightful reception” is not a building I’ve often uttered, aliases moreover thought, but this is simply a Martin Kuczmarski restaurant, truthful nan mini things thin to adhd up to a larger image – this cocoon-like holding pen keeps would-be queuers distant from nan diners. Why was I truthful charmed by this weird, crisply officiated bends enclosure that operates arsenic a liminal abstraction betwixt nan existent grubby world extracurricular and nan glitzy, sexy, mock-Italian trattoria inside? Well, it turns retired that’s because it solved a problem that I didn’t moreover realise I had.

‘Pleasing notes of chilli and parmesan’: Martino’s tagliatelle pinch braised short-rib ragu.

If you’ve been to Kuczmarski’s different restaurant, the Dover successful Mayfair, you’ll beryllium alert that this is nan benignant of hospitality for which his squad strives – a alternatively old-school conception that restaurants should beryllium pure, glamorous, fragrant escapism. The Dover serves acold martinis, lobster rolls and meatballs, but, conscionable arsenic importantly, it besides has awesome lighting that momentarily diffuses a double chin, and beautiful cutlery that makes a female consciousness arsenic if her hands are someway daintier. At Martino’s, location are achromatic tablecloths, an ox-blood floor, candle-lit tables and an elegant cardinal barroom wherever 1 tin portion a garibaldi aliases negroni sbagliato and eat plates of zucchini fritti while seeing and being seen. Mind you, it is simply a alternatively conspicuous spot to sit, truthful don’t bring an illicit person here; if your luncheon plans see a broadside information of skulduggery, whitethorn I propose 1 of nan gorgeous half-booths astatine nan back?

That said, Martino’s would besides beryllium nan cleanable spot for a family meet-up because, while it’s cool, it’s besides alternatively laidback, and nan paper won’t frighten moreover nan tamest of diners. Think fried gnocchi pinch salumi, beef fillet carpaccio pinch pecorino cream, and ribollita pinch cannellini beans and rosemary murphy bread. This paper is successful nary measurement ambitious and, pinch its margherita pizzas and tricolore chickenhearted salads, it veers astatine times into nan realms of a Zizzi aliases a Spaghetti House.

Still, contempt nan nutrient not seeming to beryllium rather arsenic important arsenic it mightiness be, particularly compared pinch nan vibes, conviviality and wide artistic prettiness of nan place, it’s really still beautiful good. Tonno tonnato – thinly sliced seared tuna successful a creamy, caper-based condiment – had each nan correct levels of sweet, zesty acidity, and immoderate warm, pillowy focaccia was nan cleanable accompaniment. Tortellini successful brodo comes pinch an other jug of nan alternatively delightful broth, while nan pasta itself is uniformly beautiful and stuffed pinch nicely seasoned pork and beef. We besides ate nan location tagliatelle pinch soft, braised short rib ragu and pleasing notes of chilli and parmesan.

The condiment for Martino’s branzino all’acqua pazza – aliases oversea bass successful crazy h2o – “could do pinch a spot much punch”.

Branzino all’acqua pazza turns up successful a large, stainless-steel platter pinch nan oversea bass fillet perched connected a herb condiment that could person done pinch a spot much punch, though I did person it pinch immoderate very bully garlic, conifer seed and chilli-strewn broccoletti. One of nan astir melodramatic dishes was nan veal Milanese, which comes heavy breaded and connected nan bone, and resembling thing truthful overmuch arsenic thing Thor, God of Thunder, mightiness person arsenic a snack.

That past is simply a crockery for those pinch large appetites, possibly pinch a broadside of rosemary patate al forno and – hell, why not? – followed by a vessel of lukewarm citrus and vanilla custard doughnuts. We, connected nan different hand, went for nan crespelle al pistacchio, a semi-warm crepe clogged pinch greenish pistachio condiment and pistachio ice-cream. Is pistachio still connected trend? Didn’t we already scope highest pistachio? Martino’s doesn’t care, and is presently serving up bowls of this sweet, emerald stodge by nan shedload. Also decent is nan torta al cioccolato, which, ignoring nan Italian name, is fundamentally conscionable a passably decent, damp almond and cocoa sponge pinch a acheronian cocoa mousse.

Martino’s crespelle al pistachio is being sold ‘by nan shedload’.

Martino’s is already beautiful bedlam conscionable a fewer weeks aft opening, and its location is truthful fantastically convenient and its estimation already truthful heady that I expect it to settee successful arsenic a useful 2026 spot for glam, pre-theatre dinners and gossipy evenings, arsenic good arsenic a canteen for rich | locals who can’t find their ain kitchens, fto unsocial unfastened their ain fridges. With a fewer deftly placed napkins and immoderate strategically served spaghetti, Kuczmarski makes mean group consciousness temporarily for illustration movie stars. Long whitethorn he reign.

• Martino’s The Willett Building, 37 Sloane Square, London SW1, 020-3908 7300. Open each week, luncheon noon-2.30pm (last booking), meal 5.30-10.30pm (10pm Sun; past booking). From astir £60 a caput for 3 courses à la carte, positive drinks & service