Lilibet’s, London W1: ‘pure Joy, High Drama, Camp As Heck’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

Until past week, Punk Royale was easy nan strangest edifice I’ve been to each year. “We’re each wacky here!” cried those Copenhagen punks pinch pans, arsenic covered successful my reappraisal here a period aliases truthful ago. But they’ve already been usurped by a spot successful a repurposed agency artifact little than half a mile away.

The fabulously bizarre Lilibet’s opened her doors pinch small aliases nary fanfare successful mid-September, beckoning america into her world of strange. Behold nan ancient fireplaces, nan floral chairs and wallpaper, nan multitude of gilt-framed, 18th-century French paintings, nan beautiful etched glassware, nan monogrammed napkins, nan gangly meal candles. Lilibet’s has astir it nan aerial of really nan palace of Versailles would look if its designers (in Lilibet’s lawsuit Russell Sage Studio) had been allowed really to fto their hairsbreadth down. The restaurant, by Ross Shonhan, ex-Nobu executive chef and laminitis of nan Bone Daddies ramen chain, is named aft our beloved Queen Elizabeth II, God remainder her mortal soul. Apparently, our erstwhile monarch was calved successful this very building connected 21 April 1926, erstwhile nan tract was still a Mayfair townhouse.

‘Really very, very good’: Lilibet’s ricotta agnolotti pinch citrus and sage.

And what amended measurement to salary tribute to Her Maj than by creating from scratch a multimillion-pound, turbo-chintz, mock-aristocratic eating room serving fire-roasted beef-fat oysters, deluxe seafood platters, anchovy eclairs, trou Normand and a alternatively regal-sounding food triptych. “What is simply a food triptych?” I perceive you cry. Well, this is erstwhile nan diner selects a food – gurnard, oversea bass aliases oversea bream – and it is past served successful 3 ways: crudo, grilled and arsenic a crockery made à la minute from its bones. Is location thing much “trapped astatine Balmoral for nan summertime erstwhile you’d alternatively beryllium successful nan Bahamas” than a food triptych? Did a food triptych yet nonstop nan Sussexes fleeing to LA? I’m being churlish, of course, because a food triptych is simply a fantastically eco-friendly measurement to eat each nan parts of a fish, and is not conscionable – cough – “leftovers”.

Still, from nan infinitesimal you enter, Lilibet’s throws up galore questions. You, nan bedazzled diner, will beryllium connected your multi-cushioned boudoir chair successful this charming, Las Vegas-style royalist fever dream, caput spinning and muttering, “But really does it consciousness and smell truthful convincingly ancient erstwhile it’s been present for only a matter of weeks?” Where nan hellhole do you bargain a room fragrance called “Old Forgotten Chamber successful nan West Wing of Buckingham Palace circa 1976”? In galore ways, Lilibet’s is nan world’s sexiest purpose-built National Trust building, because, inarguably, each slope vacation Monday visits to a doily-festooned heap would beryllium improved by having a spot little “here’s a moth-eaten tapestry” and a batch much “here’s a twinkly, pinkish velour-seated cocktail barroom – would you for illustration a sheet of Cornish crab tarts and a citrus verbena martini?”

‘The repast I’ll support returning for’: Lilibet’s dover sole pinch Café de Paris butter.

Obviously, each of nan supra would beryllium extra-hilarious if nan nutrient was dire and nan ambiance stiff, but neither of those is true. Lilibet’s is, rather, axenic joy. It’s precocious drama, campy arsenic heck and utterly uncopyable. This is nan spot to return your out-of-town parents, your person who feels neglected, and clients you really don’t want to talk to, because they’ll surely beryllium distracted by nan decor arsenic good arsenic by nan plates of fritto misto, lukewarm pittas pinch spiced herb salsa, chrysanthemum crockery pinch Caesar dressing and, 1 of nan champion things I tasted here, nan freshly made ricotta agnolotti pinch sage and citrus sauce, which is really very, very good.

The repast I’ll support returning for, though, will beryllium nan dover sole, expertly filleted tableside and served pinch Café de Paris butter, pinch a broadside of Lilibet’s mash, which of people comes topped pinch shellfish bisque and lobster meat, and possibly pinch nan sprouting broccoli topped pinch colatura vinaigrette, chilli and mint alongside. And if you’re not struck pinch fish, I’ve besides heard awesome things astir Lilibet’s veal holstein escalope and its bone-in ribeye.

‘Like thing retired of a Tom and Jerry cartoon’: Lilibet’s choux à la crème. Photograph: Beca B Jones/The Guardian

The dessert menu, too, will raise an eyebrow, not slightest because it features a steak sandwich prego, for immoderate logic that remains unclear to me, because I was excessively engaged debating having nan crepe suzette, nan princess sponge barroom pinch raspberries and almonds, aliases nan heap of choux à la crème that turns up connected a solid guidelines looking for illustration thing retired of a Tom and Jerry cartoon, only to beryllium covered successful an full jugful of basking cocoa sauce.

Lilibet’s is endlessly lovable. In fact, I’d spell truthful acold arsenic to opportunity it’s my caller favourite restaurant. I’m not judge I wholly bargain into each nan various elements of its royal backstory, but it’s nevertheless a beautiful creation done regal Wibbly Wobbly World. It serves mash topped pinch lobster, too, truthful I’m much than happy to eat and portion successful nan fairytale.

• Lilibet’s 17 Bruton Street, London W1, 020-3828 8388. Open luncheon Weds-Sat, noon-2.30pm; meal Tues-Sat, 5.30-11pm. From astir £50 a caput à la carte. Set luncheon £29 for 2 courses, £34 for three. All positive drinks & service